It’s not every day that the Banjul Ports play host to a ship with a history as storied as the Arctic Sunrise. When our crew from The Senegambia Observer arrived at the docks, the Greenpeace vessel was unmissable — squat, bright, and bristling with...

By Biran Gaye Before daylight reaches Tabokoto, Sukuta Conteh, 39, is already up. The town still feels restless, but inside the modest home she shares with her four children, the race is on — breakfast, uniforms, chores, a quick sweep of the compound. By the time...